Город Владимир Путешествие по древним городам Владимирской земли Старый Владимир Old Russian Towns Памятники архитектуры Музеи Музеи, экспозиции

Город Суздаль История Суздаля Герб суздаля Архитектура Суздаля Музеи Суздаля

Досуг и развлечения Где поесть во Владимире Где поспать во Владимире Что можно посмотреть во Владимире Где поесть в Суздале Где поспать в Суздале Что можно посмотреть в Суздале

The road from Vladimir to Suzdal forks left in the village of Dobroye opposite the Church of St. Constan-tine and St. Helena. Here the countryside opens out into miles and miles of fertile arable land which first at­tracted settlers to these parts and formed the heart of the rich, well-populated principality.

The road is slightly undulating. In a hollow on the left is the village of Sukhodol. Beyond it the ground rises again, and looking back at Vladimir from this point you can see the whole town stretched out below with its impressive group of cathedrals standing out prominently against the hazy background. Early one morning in 1177 the city regiments of Vsevolod III marched along this road to wage battle against the boyars of Suzdal and Rostov. When they had passed Sukhodol (the chronicler wrote "Suzdal" here by mis­take) they saw "the holy Virgin", in other words the Cathedral of the Assumption, "as if in the heavens" and "the whole of the town to its very foundations". The hills would have been still swathed in mist, with the cathedral shining in the early sun as if it were hovering above a sea of clouds. The men took this to be a good omen and the chronicler decided to include this "new miracle" in his account.

Further on, about halfway between Vladimir and Suz­dal, lies the large village of Borisovskoye, one of the oldest in these parts. It belonged at one time to the Mos­cow Prince Ivan Kalita (a nickname meaning "money­bags") who left it to his son Simon the Proud. The tiny stream here has retained its Finnish name of Ikishka, dating back to the time before Russian settlers appeared in these parts.

More and more fields pass by until the village of Batiyevo appears on the right. The History of the Town of Suzdal diligently compiled in the eighteenth century by a cathedral sexton called Ananiya Fyodorov, tells us that the Mongol Khan Batu pitched camp on this spot on his way to Suzdal.

A few more bends in the road and we come to the village of Pavlovskoye, which is even older than Bori-sovskoye. It was bought by the wife of Alexander Nevsky, meaning that it must have existed in the thir­teenth century and survived the Mongol invasion.

A little further on Suzdal comes into sight quite un­expectedly from the top of Poklonnaya Hill. The town lies on an elongated piece of high ground surrounded by fields and forest stretching as far as the eye can see. As we get nearer we can gradually make out the differ­ent groups of buildings: the Kremlin with its white cathedral and bell-tower, the huge pink walls and towers of the Spaso-Yevfimiev Monastery, and the slen­der bell-tower of the Convent of the Deposition of the Robe.

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